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I am Jocelyn Tumbagahan and owner of a top 3 expat blog Wits and Nuts in the UAE. I work as a financial and management consultant in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). I am also a freelance writer and lecturer and a photo enthusiast.

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Jan31

Written by:Jocelyn Tumbagahan
1/31/2011 12:07 PM RssIcon

Exploring Singapore’s Chinatown is like gathering the pieces of an enchanting puzzle. Each piece speaks for it, and while there is no hard and fast rule as to which you must pick out first, I would like to share a trail that remarkably worked for me as a tourist. 
 
 
Standing in the middle of nowhere. As you find yourself towards the steel and glass canopy in Pagoda Street, you would feel like you are in the middle of everything and nowhere. Bring out your camera. Capture in one frame the baroque and Victorian inspired establishments, colorful shops, calligraphy vendor, lanterns and the busy people in and around. Believe me, that will be one of your most treasured snapshots of your entire Chinatown album because it practically depicts everything. In fact, this photo is hanging in my living room now with a 30” x 40” frame.
 
Chinatown Heritage Complex. Opposite the infamous Olde Cuban restaurant in Pagoda Street, you will find a museum that houses a wealth of memories and untold stories of the old Chinatown, including the tailor’s, apprentices, and other original tenants stories. It also offers interesting souvenirs and being a book collector, Lotus from Mud was the most appealing to me. Through this, the story of Chinatown in 1930s was told through a young girl’s emotions.

Sri Mariamman Temple. It would be impossible to miss this colorful Hindu temple at the end of Pagoda Street. I had an enriching experience from the moment I removed my footwear and got in the humility-induced door of the temple. Each corner offers a display of the deities (Hindu gods) and the ceiling has the finest works of painting ala-Sistine Chapel, but of deities. Don’t miss traversing throughout the compound in barefoot wherein you will find more display of symbolisms. The temple is indeed a rich resource for photo enthusiast. I would say that the striking 6-tiered entrance tower is the best photo subject. The entrance is free but you need to pay SGD 3 if you will use a camera and/or video. (Here’s a tip: as you ride the train, there are free coupons given as you buy your tickets, which can be used as the camera fee!)
 


Jamae Mosque. As you exit to your left of Sri Mariamman Temple, you will find the Jamae Mosque (otherwise known as Chulia Mosque, Maideen Mosque and the Big Mosque) which is one of the oldest mosques in Singapore. It was an interesting find, having a rather unique entrance and colors which are more influenced by South Indian architecture in comparison with the mosques I used to see in the Lower Gulf. This mosque is slanted in the direction of Mecca although the entire compound was aligned with the street.



Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Isn’t it a wonder how your mood and culture orientation can change in split second? From the vibrant Hindu temple to the green-painted mosque, the Tang Dynasty-inspired Buddhist temple is magnetic enough as you view it from afar. For a more enriching experience, you may coincide your visit with an ongoing service mass. I opine though that you need to suppress your camera itch (i.e. not to take photos as respect to the ongoing ritual. As a Catholic, I found the entirety of the service mass contagiously peaceful.). You will be amazed by the Hundred Dragons Hall which literally shrines a hundred of Buddha. Behind it, you will find the Universal Hall wherein the 6-arm Buddha is sitting on a lotus throne. While the main Buddha is in the fourth floor, the other floors serve as a museum which houses several artifacts. The entire temple is glorious and elegant with the shade or red and gold dominating it.



Chinatown Complex. While bargains are spelled everywhere, try the Chinatown complex for a divergent experience. In the afternoon, it is fascinating to see the elderly folks doing aerobics and other activities such as play cards and chess over their chatters on the benches. Whether you are one of the kindred souls who are drawn by portraiture photography or not, you would be more than willing to invest an hour in the complex by capturing Chinatown through the residents’ faces. (Tip: although they don’t mind being photographed, taking permission is the best policy. Manage the candidness of your shots.)

A visit to Chinatown is not complete without the food trip. Popular street favorites are available in the colorful stalls in Food Street (don’t forget the most delicious mango shake and chicken satay from Wonderful Satay), possibly the best hawker food I have tried, restaurants set on restored shophouses, alfresco setting… they got everything.

Among the Chinatowns I’ve visited, Singapore’s is by far the neatest and most gregarious. I’m looking forward, with much delight, to revisiting it to continue picking the other pieces of its heritage and savour that distinct taste of spicy chicken satay again while I  treat myself to street photography.


 


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